Four former British special forces soldiers have climbed Mount Everest in just under five days, setting a new record for the fastest ascent without traditional acclimatisation in the Himalayas. The team, which included UK veterans minister Alastair Carns , used a combination of high-tech training methods and controversial xenon gas therapy to prepare their bodies for the extreme altitude. Typically, climbers spend up to two months gradually adjusting to low oxygen levels on the mountain. Their swift summit has sparked both praise for innovation and concern over safety and fairness in high-altitude mountaineering.
What made this climb to Mount Everest so unique?
Most climbers follow a slow and steady route to the Everest summit, moving between various camps to allow their bodies to adapt to the thin air. This team, however, skipped the usual six to eight weeks of on-mountain acclimatisation. Instead, they underwent a three-month pre-acclimatisation programme using special tents that simulated high-altitude conditions. These "hypoxic tents" reduce oxygen levels to mimic the atmosphere found at extreme elevations, training the body to cope with lower oxygen.
The role of xenon gas
What set this expedition apart was their use of xenon gas. Administered in a clinic in Germany two weeks before their climb, the gas is claimed to help the body produce more red blood cells, which are essential for carrying oxygen. Supporters say it may reduce the risk of altitude sickness. However, experts remain divided. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation has warned that there is no strong scientific evidence backing its effectiveness and has raised concerns about safety.
The record-breaking journey
The team began their ascent from Everest base camp on 16 May and reached the summit early on 21 May, taking four days and 18 hours in total. Accompanied by five Sherpa guides and a cameraman, they used supplemental oxygen during the climb, a standard practice on Everest. Their rapid push to the top was made possible by their intensive preparation and favourable weather conditions.
Reactions from the mountaineering world
While the speed of the ascent has been applauded by some for its efficiency and low environmental impact, others in the mountaineering community are sceptical. Critics argue that such short expeditions risk encouraging dangerous shortcuts and undermine the traditional methods that have kept climbers safe. Some have even called for regulations to be updated to address the growing use of unconventional acclimatisation techniques.
Concerns over tourism and fairness
Expedition organisers in Nepal worry that if more climbers adopt these fast-track methods, it could shorten the duration of future expeditions and reduce income for local businesses and guides. There is also concern about the ethical implications of using performance-enhancing methods in a sport where physical and mental endurance are key to success. Nepal’s tourism department has stated it was unaware of the team’s methods and will now review the situation.
Why did they do it?
According to expedition organiser Lukas Furtenbach , a shorter climb reduces the climbers' exposure to the dangers of high altitude and has a smaller environmental impact. He believes such techniques could represent the future of high-altitude climbing. However, others argue that these shortcuts could compromise safety and the spirit of mountaineering.
A new chapter or a dangerous trend?
The British team's ascent is undeniably a milestone in the history of Everest expeditions. But as more climbers consider high-speed climbs using advanced technology, the debate continues over whether innovation is enhancing the sport or risking its integrity. For now, the climb has stirred global conversation about how far mountaineers should go in the pursuit of speed and success.
What made this climb to Mount Everest so unique?
Most climbers follow a slow and steady route to the Everest summit, moving between various camps to allow their bodies to adapt to the thin air. This team, however, skipped the usual six to eight weeks of on-mountain acclimatisation. Instead, they underwent a three-month pre-acclimatisation programme using special tents that simulated high-altitude conditions. These "hypoxic tents" reduce oxygen levels to mimic the atmosphere found at extreme elevations, training the body to cope with lower oxygen.
The role of xenon gas
What set this expedition apart was their use of xenon gas. Administered in a clinic in Germany two weeks before their climb, the gas is claimed to help the body produce more red blood cells, which are essential for carrying oxygen. Supporters say it may reduce the risk of altitude sickness. However, experts remain divided. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation has warned that there is no strong scientific evidence backing its effectiveness and has raised concerns about safety.
The record-breaking journey
The team began their ascent from Everest base camp on 16 May and reached the summit early on 21 May, taking four days and 18 hours in total. Accompanied by five Sherpa guides and a cameraman, they used supplemental oxygen during the climb, a standard practice on Everest. Their rapid push to the top was made possible by their intensive preparation and favourable weather conditions.
Reactions from the mountaineering world
While the speed of the ascent has been applauded by some for its efficiency and low environmental impact, others in the mountaineering community are sceptical. Critics argue that such short expeditions risk encouraging dangerous shortcuts and undermine the traditional methods that have kept climbers safe. Some have even called for regulations to be updated to address the growing use of unconventional acclimatisation techniques.
Concerns over tourism and fairness
Expedition organisers in Nepal worry that if more climbers adopt these fast-track methods, it could shorten the duration of future expeditions and reduce income for local businesses and guides. There is also concern about the ethical implications of using performance-enhancing methods in a sport where physical and mental endurance are key to success. Nepal’s tourism department has stated it was unaware of the team’s methods and will now review the situation.
Why did they do it?
According to expedition organiser Lukas Furtenbach , a shorter climb reduces the climbers' exposure to the dangers of high altitude and has a smaller environmental impact. He believes such techniques could represent the future of high-altitude climbing. However, others argue that these shortcuts could compromise safety and the spirit of mountaineering.
A new chapter or a dangerous trend?
The British team's ascent is undeniably a milestone in the history of Everest expeditions. But as more climbers consider high-speed climbs using advanced technology, the debate continues over whether innovation is enhancing the sport or risking its integrity. For now, the climb has stirred global conversation about how far mountaineers should go in the pursuit of speed and success.
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